Dec 21st, 2009

The Tour De Isaan Route

The Route

The last 3 weeks I’ve been touring around the North East of Thailand on a little mo-ped and bwoy, it has been so much fun! I know it won’t be long before I’m back out on the open road mingling with the friendly locals again.

The image above is the route that I took. I’m not sure how many miles I did, but it felt like I did a lot! I started in Ubon Ratchathani where they have great temples and the best xpat community I have ever seen. Then it was up to Mukdahan where life along the Mekong River runs extremely slow and you have the Mukdahan National Park with the weird rock formations. Then it was up to That Phanom where I witnessed a huge ceremony consisting of thousands of monks at the impressive That Phanom temple.

Isaan Trip

Monks at Wat That Phanom

Isaan Trip

My fav Isaan dish – BBQ’d Fish – Normally eaten with sticky rice and a very spicy dipping sauce.

I kept going north to Nakhon Phanom before banking left to the sleepy province of Sakhon Nakhon – where I witnessed a Chinese Dragon performance. I kept heading west until I reached Udon Thani, one of the biggest provinces in this part of the Kingdom. Many bars, both aimed at Thai’s and foreigners alike meant for some good nights out.

Isaan Trip

Chinese dragon performance in Nakhon Phanom

Isaan Trip

A typical sleepy street outside the main towns

After 2 nights in Udon Thani I was back on the bike heading to Loei – easily the most beautiful out of all the provinces I visited. While on-ruote to Loei I passed through Nong Beau lamphu provice, which is where I spent the best part of a year living in a rural Thai village – I still think Nong Beau lamphu province has the most friendly locals, not only in North East Thailand, but out of all the countries I’ve ever visited.

Isaan Trip

One of many lakes we passed and stopped of at.

Tree’s and lakes lined both sides of the roads for most of the time while in Loei. After a night in Loei, I headed onto Phukradueng National Park where temperatures dropped to 5c in the early hours of the morning. But the bright stars, waterfalls and the young Thai tourists made it one great adventure that the average tourist misses out on.

Isaan Trip

Tamarind is in season. Yum!

I then went South to Khon Kaen, easily my fav province due to the excellent (and cheap) accommodations options, bars and the newly opened Central Shopping Mall that hosts a 7 screen cinema – the only cinema in Isaan that shows movies with English language.

Isaan Trip

Impressive mountain in Loei province

Isaan Trip

Outside the main towns, most of the smaller roads are similar to this one.

For the last leg of the trip, I headed north east up to Mukdahan where I traveled through rice paddies, fields and more traditional Thai villages. I then got the opportunity to watch some famous musicians before shooting a gun for the first time, with the local Police.

Isaan Trip

Me at the shooting range in Mukdahan. This is the first time I’ve ever used a gun.

Isaan Trip

An annual concert that draws in big crowds in Mukdahan.

All in all, it’s been a great trip and I would highly recommend you come and explore this unique part of Thailand before it changes. Local transport is very good, and extremely cheap. Or you could simply hire yourself a motorbike in either Khon Kaen or Ubon for 200b a day and experience adventure travel that 99% of Thailand’s tourists miss out on.

If you have any Q’s about traveling in this region, feel free to ask in the comments and I’ll try my best to answer them!

View All Posts

18 Responses

  1. Craig says:

    That’s a great looking route and some cool photos along the way. Nice stuff!

  2. Mike says:

    wow. pics all look awesome. hope to be doin same thing as u one day :D.

  3. Chris says:

    I hope you do as well! Not enough tourists get to see this region, and it’s a shame.

  4. Susi says:

    Hi, I love Thailand and travel a lot, but I never read such a great report on this wonderful country. All these pictures reflect, how lovely this country can be besides the big tourist attractions like Phi-Phi, Phuket ++++
    Thanks for sharing with others.
    Susi from Luxembourg

  5. tom says:

    you are missing many many places

  6. Chris says:

    Man, I love all of this! Thanks for taking the time to blog everything!!!

  7. Neale says:

    Very Cool am planning on doing the 64 provinces on a Honda Wave fairly soon, did 8 of the southern ones recently during a two week period…

  8. Larry Hickey says:

    Sounds like a very nice trip. When you say moped I hope it is in jest. I made a trip on a small 135 Yamaha from Ubon to Udorn and return with my wife, this year Had a great time. I think the term moped is often misused it did mean a small bike that could be peddled. I love this part of Thailand. Made my first trip from Ubon to Nakon Phanom in 1971 on a 185 Susuki. Larry

  9. peter says:

    Great Photos Chris,and great Blog.
    I have a girlfriend in Nakhon Ratchasima, and travel to here and her folks village in a province called Khon Buri.
    I agree, it is a beautiful part of Thailand,that a lot of people don’t travel too.
    I will be shifting here in the very near future.

    Peter.

  10. Rachel says:

    Thank you for your help. My husband and I are traveling to Thailand in a few weeks. He is originally from Nong Khai and hasn’t been back in over 20 yrs, so we are super excited. I am glad to hear that everyone is so friendly and welcoming. My biggest concern is the language barrier, we’ve bought books and my husband remembers some Thai. Are there any places in Nong Khai that you would recommend seeing? We are flying into Udon Thani and renting a car to drive to Nongh Khai. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Thank you

    • Chris says:

      There are many expats here in Isaan who speak very little Thai and they get by fine. I wouldn’t worry about it to much – the locals are very friendly and with hand movements and pointing, you’ll have no problems.

  11. john says:

    Hi, I’ve done daytrips in Thailand by moped, however I’m a bit concerned on doing a multi day trips in case of a flat tyre. Are there many regular repair shops in this part of Thailand?

    Lovin the blog entries

    • Chris says:

      I’ve gotten heaps and heaps of flat tyres over the years, and thankfully I’ve never had to push the bike for more than 1km. I wouldn’t worry about it to much – need to see this as part of the adventure :D

  12. Nils says:

    That route looked interesting, and with great photos ;-). Although I doubt many tourists will venture a moped (but great for you ! – I expect you got close) it’s itineraries like this that can make ideas for people to also include other than the beaches/cities in Thailand !

    TY !

    Nils

  13. Jocelyn says:

    Definitely good idea with the moped! Am currently in Ban Phaeng (just north of your route) on a small folding bike. Everone scooters! – no one cycles – with good reason – it’s long days under the hot isan sun.

    So 2 things:

    1. Moped – way to go!
    2. Learn some Thai. Am just pointing and gesturing. Hard work and missing out on so much.

    So next time, I’ll hire a moped like you :)

  14. gecko says:

    Chris,
    It’s great to see someone suggesting travel through Isan! And having your own transport is definitely the way to do it – allowing you to stop off when and where you want etc (especially when you see something good to eat – some mam, grilled chicken, som tam or whatever…)
    For visitors looking to experience this little frequented part of Thailand, our fully catered private pool villa Green Gecko and our full board Thai holiday rental Gecko Villa offer visitors the chance to experience life in rural
    Isan among the rice paddies of Udon Thani province, with a focus on the authentic…and tasty food. Drop by next time you’re in the area!

Leave a Comment